TechCare Appliance Repair delivers the highest standards of dryer repair in Metro Vancouver. Our technical expertise, fast service, competitive pricing and friendly, courteous customer service make the decision to trust TechCare an easy one.
Every Dryer Make and Model
If you are looking for a dryer repair company that can service dryers of all makes and models, gas or electric, for home or business applications then you have come to the right company. TechCare Appliance Repair has experienced dryer repair technicians that have worked with every conceivable dryer. This is your assurance that we can handle your dryer repair job as quickly and efficiently as possible.
We are accustomed to working with dryers from brands such as: Sub Zero, Miele, Electrolux, Bosch, GE Monogram, Gaggenau, Dacor, Thermador, LG, Fisher, Paykel, Samsung, Summit, KitchenAid, Maytag, Whirlpool, Speed Queen, Frigidaire, Inglis, Kenmore, Moffat, Admiral, Ropert, Hotpoint, Jenn-Air, Amana and many more.
Dryer Repair Questions
DRYER IS NOT HEATING
If the dryer is working but not producing any heat you are having the most common problem with dryers. Most of the time the problem is in a blown fuse or a faulty heating element. There are times when the main control board needs to be replaced in order to solve this problem.
Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse prevents the dryer from over heating. Fuses are possibly located on the blower housing at a dryers heat source. For electric dryers this would be the heating element and for gas dryers this would be at the burner. If the fuse has blown it will have no continuity as shown by a multimeter. Pro Tip: A blown fuse could be the sign of a clogged vent or exhaust pipe. Check as required.
Gas Valve Solenoid: These are located on gas dryers. The gas valve solenoid opens allowing gas to flow to the burner. You must first check the igniter. If the igniter glows but does not spark the gas into a flame then the gas valve solenoid is malfunctioning and must be replaced.
Igniter: The igniter is what sparks the gas into flame. You can use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity.
Heating Element Assembly: The heater element assembly heats the air inside your dryer and sends it into the drum. Overtime it can burn out. It can be checked with a multimeter for continuity and replaced as needed.
DRYER WON'T SPIN
When your dryer stopped spinning it is most likely caused by a broken belt, you can reach to the drum and try turning it by hand – if it spins easily, the belt is probably broken or slipped off. A not spinning dryer can be also due to a faulty drum roller. In rare cases the motor is faulty and the dryer won't spin.
Drive Belt: The drive belt is long and slender. It wraps around all the major components of a dryer: The drum, tension pulley and drive motor pulley. You can easilt check if the drive belt is broken by simply hand spinning the drum. If it spins too easily than the belt is most likely broken. You should always examine the belt for any signs of wear when you have a chance, and replace if needed.
Drum Rollers: Depending on your dryer it might have two or more drum rollers. They are usually located at the rear and front of the drum and support it so that it can spin freely. The drum rollers can wear out over time making it difficult for the dryer to spin and placing excess stress on the motor. You can test your drum rollers by removing the drive belt and hand spinning the drum. If the drum does not spin evenly or freely you probably have to replace the drum rollers.
Drum Roller Axels: The drum rollers are attached to an axel. The axels can become worn out too. You can test the drum roller axels the same way you would test the drum rollers. Both the axels and rollers must be inspected and usually both would be replaced at the same time.
Drum Slides: The drum slides are small pieces of plastic that guide and support the drum as it spins. They are located around the front of the drum. If the drum slides have worn out sometimes it creates to much friction and the motor won't work. They need to be manually inspected and replaced as a set if they are worn out.
Drum Bearing: The drum bearing is located at the back of the drum and is necessary for proper function. If you remove the drive belt and hand spin and feel / hear a grinding noise then the drum bearing may be at fault.
DRYER TAKES TOO LONG TO DRY
The dryer will take too long to dry if there is a problem with the airflow. If the vent is clogged the air circulation is restricted and the dryer would take a long time to dry – you should clean the vent at least once a year to prevent it from being clogged. Also a faulty blower wheel would not draw enough air into the dryer causing it to dry longer, in many cases there is just a sock in the blower wheel and when removed solves the problem.
Air Flow Issue: If the exhaust vent is clogged it will severely affect your dryer's ability to get the job done. Too much moisture remains in the machine. Inspect your dryer's vents manually.
Lint Filter: The lint filter could be full or clogged. It can be manually cleaned.
Blower Wheel: The blower wheel is attached to the drive motor and helps push air into the dryer drum. It can become blocked with lint and other dryer objects. You can determine if the blower wheel is defective by removing the vents and checking the power of the air flow. The blower wheel should not wobble when rotated by hand.
Gas Valve Solenoid: The gas valve solenoids can turn fail once the machine has started. This will cause long drying times. You can test the solenoids by watching the igniter. If the igniter glows but does not ignite the gas your solenoid is defective.
Heating Elements: The heating element heats the air. It can burn out. It needs to be tested with a multimeter and replaced if it has no continuity.
DRYER WON'T START
If your dryer won't start it might be due to a blown thermal fuse which is there to protect the dryer from overheating. A common reason for this problem is a faulty start switch, try starting the dryer – if it hums but won't start the switch is ok, but if there is no humming sound and the dryer won't start, it is most likely due to a faulty start switch. A door switch that prevents the dryer from starting if the door is open could also cause this problem.
Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating. It is located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source. The fuse can be checked with a multimeter for continuity. Pro Tip: A blown thermal fuse could indicate that you may have a restricted exhaust vent. Check it for blockages.
Start Switch: If the start switch is defective the dryer won't work. You can test the start switch by trying to start the dryer. If the dryer “hums” but does not start the your start switch is OK. If there is no noise the problem may be the start switch. Test with a multimeter.
Door Switch: The door switch engages when you close your dryer's door and you should hear it “click”. It can be tested with a multimeter.
Drive Belt and Belt Switch: If the drive belt breaks the motor can still run on some models. The belt switch would shut everything down if the belt was broken. You must first determine if your model has a belt switch.
Circuits Outlets and Plugs: Try plugging something else into the outlet. Check your circuit breaker for blown fuses. Inspect the dryer plug for signs of damage.
DRYER IS NOISY
If your dryer started to be noisy it is probably caused by a broken belt, a faulty drum roller or a drum roller axle.
Drive Belt: The drive belt is long and slender, wrapping all the way around the dryer drum, tension pulley and drive motor. It is put under a lot of strain and can break or become frayed. If worn it needs to be replaced.
Roller Drum: The drum rollers need to be inspected. Depending on the dryer model there may be only one drum roller or several. It probably makes sense to replace all the drum rollers if one is on the way out.
Drum Roller Axle: Many dryers have two or more drum support rollers at the front and back of the drum. You can test the drum rollers by removing the drive belt and turning the drum by hand. If it spins evenly and freely than the drum roller axels are OK.