In many cases the washer will stop draining due to a clogged drainage hose or due to an object caught in the draining pump. There are some cases when the draining pump is faulty and needs to be replaced.

• Washer Drain Pump: small objects or clothes can get stuck in the drain pump. The drain pump must be removed and checked for blockages. If it is clear, but still making noises during the drainage cycle it will need to be replaced.
• Clogged Hoses: We usually find socks stuck in a washer hose. The hose is attached to the pump and needs to be inspected. Leaking and damaged hoses should always be replaced upon any signs of wear.
• Lid Switch Assembly: This prevents the washer from spinning while the lid of the washing machine is open. If the lid switch assembly fails it will also prevent the washer from draining. A multimeter can be used to test each of the lid assembly units for continuity. No continuity means it needs to be replaced.

A leaking washer is a common problem. Washers will leak due to a problem with the water inlet valve that isn't connected properly or just faulty, unfortunately these cannot be repaired and need to be replaced. There are times when the door seal is ripped or cracked and that would be the reason for the leaking washer.

• Drain Pump: The drain pump pumps out water from the drain hose. If the drain pump is cracked, has leaking seals or the bearings are worn out it can probably be repaired. In some cases a new unit may be the best and/or cheapest solution. Our repair technicians will tell you the honest truth.
• Tube Seal: This is a major problem. If the tube seal is leaking it may get water on other washer parts that should not get wet, such as the bearings. This is a complicated repair as most of the washer will have to be disassembled to access the tube seal.

One of the most common issues is the the washer won't spin. Unfortunately there are many parts to check that could potentially be the reason for this issue: The lid switch is faulty and its preventing the washer from spinning. The motor coupling is faulty, its job is to protect the motor and transmission but it can fail with time due to wear. Drive belt is probably the most common reason for a not spinning washer. The clutch, basket drive and transmission play important roles too…

• Lid Switch Assembly: This prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. A multimeter must be used to determine that there in continuity in the unit and replaced accordingly.
• Motor Coupling: The motor coupling connects the washer motor to the transmission. An overloaded washer could cause the coupling to break. Over time the coupling can also fail due to regular usage. If the coupling is broken it must be replaced with a new part.
• Drive Belt: The drive belt could break or just come loose from the pulleys. It needs to be inspected to determine if it is the cause of the washer not spinning. An easy repair!
• Clutch: The clutch can wear out over time. It allows the tub to begin the spinning process (just like a clutch on a car). If the clutch is worn out it needs to be replaced.
• Transmission: The transmission has gears inside of it that help the washer spin. It is one of the most heavy duty parts of a washing machine and is one of the most expensive parts to replace. All other parts must be checked before making the decision to replace the transmission.
• Basket Drive: The basket drive is connected to the transmission and engages with the inner tub. We need to check the spin tube tabs and the drive block to make sure they are not stripped.

If your washer wont start it might be due to a faulty control board – try pressing some buttons, if some work and others don't the control board is most likely needs to be replaced. Washer also wont star if there is a problem with a door switch that is preventing the washer to start if the door is open. A burned fuse or a faulty timer are also common reasons for a washer not to start.

• Washer Timer: The washer timer is frequently misdiagnosed. The timer must be checked with a multimeter to determine if it has continuity.
• Control and Display Board: This is where all the buttons are located. If some buttons work and others do not the board may have to be replaced. There may be loose wiring, or fuses that can be replaced to get it working again.
• Line Fuse: The line fuse is designed to turn off your washer if there are major electrical problems. If the circuits are overloaded then the line fuse will “blow”. You can test the washer's line fuse with a multimeter to determine it it has continuity. It is important to determine the underlying issue with a line fuse problem because it will only continue to happen. The wiring, motor and drain pump need to be checked to see if they are causing short circuits in the electrical system.

When the washer stops in the middle of the cycle it is cause by a faulty water inlet valve. When the washer suppose to receive water from the water inlet valve but water is not entering the tub the washer will keep “waiting” and won't continue the cycle. A lid switch or a door switch could cause the washer to stop at mid cycle and might need to be replaced.

• Lid Switch Assembly: The lid switch stops the washer from spinning if the lid is open. A faulty lid switch can also cause the washer to stop mid-cycle. It needs to be tested with a continuity meter and replaced accordingly.
• Washer Door Lock: The door lock keeps the door securely closed during operation. It can be the cause of a washer stoping mid-cycle. It can fail mechanically or electrically. The door lock consists of a small motor and a switch assembly.
• Water Inlet Valve: The inlet valve lets water into the machine during the rinse cycle. A multi-meter can be used to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the inlet valve has failed it won't let water into the machine and this will cause the machine to stop mid-cycle.

When the washer starts “dancing” around it is funny but not fun. Usually a shaking or vibrating washer caused due to one or more faulty shock absorbers. A suspension rod or a suspension spring also causing most washers to be shaky.

• Shock Absorbers: There can be several shock absorbers on a washing machine. If just one is worn out it can cause the entire washer to shake or vibrate. They can also shift position under the machine. You may as well replace them all while you are in a position to do so. Easy fix, yeah!
• Suspension Rod: These rods help dampen vibration of the washing machine. They can easily be inspected and replaced if broken. Perhaps they have even become unattached and just need to be screwed in again.
• Suspension Spring: Suspension springs also help reduce vibrations while in operation. The springs can be broken, worn out, unbalanced or not properly secured. Fix as required.

If your washer is overflowing it could be a problem with the water inlet valve or pressure switch. Even issues with your home or business water pressure could be the cause of washer overflow issues. Our washer repair technicians can help diagnose and repair any of these issues.

• Water Inlet Valve: Start by turing off the washer while it is filling with water. If the washer continues to fill than your problem is most likely the water inlet valve. It can also be checked with a multi-meter for continuity and will have to be replaced if faulty.
• Pressure Switch: The pressure switch is tied to the water inlet valve. If the pressure switch fails than the washer will continue to fill with water until it overflows. Always inspect the air tube that is connected to the pressure switch for blockages.
• Low Water Pressure: The water inlet valve requires 20psi of water pressure to operate correctly. If there is not enough water pressure than the valve may not realize that the machine is full and not shut off. We can help you check your home or businesses' water supply pressure.

When we talk about washer agitation (agitate) it means the spin cycle… And it can get you agitated if your washer is not agitating. We quite often have to use an agitator repair kit that contains several of the key components. The agitator is usually located at the top of the agitator. A drive block connects the washer transmission to the agitator, it can be broken or loose. The motor coupling is another prime suspect.

• Agitator Repair Kit: An agitator repair kit contains several components such as an agitator cam, directional cogs, a bearing, thrust spacer, inner cap seal, and washer. Agitator grease is needed for this repair. Always be sure to disconnect power to the washing machine before beginning any repair job or inspection.
• Drive Block: The drive block connects the washer transmission to the agitator. Our technicians can easily diagnose this problem and repair or replace the faulty part.
• Motor Coupling: The motor coupling connects the washer motor to the transmission. An overloaded washer could cause the coupling to break. Over time the coupling can also fail due to regular usage. If the coupling is broken it must be replaced with a new part.

Bangs, thumps, grinding? If your washer is making a loud noise you can be sure it has something to do with a bearing. But which one? There are two common bearings inside washing machines: the rear drum bearing or a tub bearing.

• Rear Drum Bearing: The rear drum has a one or several inner bearings that help the washer spin smoothly. This is a major repair as it can be exceptionally difficult to remove and press into place a new bearing into some drums. Many times the entire system needs to be replaced with a new part.
• Tub Bearing: The tub bearing keeps the inner tub spinning smoothly. This is a major repair as an involved disassembly most be performed to access the tub bearing.