If one or more of the surface elements won't torn on or won't turn off the problems is either with the surface element or with the switch – in both cases it is an easy repair and performed in less than an hour.

• Surface Element Switch: The surface element switch controls power to the surface element coil. Try switching the elements around if possible. If the new element doesn't work than you likely have a malfunctioning surface element switch.
• Surface Element Board: The surface element board regulates the supply of power to the stove burners. The surface board can contain one, or several relays. If any of them fail the entire board can malfunction. The surface board should be tested with a multimeter for continuity.
• Coil Surface Element: Make sure that your coil surface element is pushed fully into its socket. Look for signs of damage on the element and connections. Test the coil surface element with a multimeter for continuity.
• Radiant Surface Element: The radiant surface element is the heating element itself and it can burn out just like a light bulb. It can be tested with a multimeter.

Not heating oven is the most common problem, the cause of this could be a burned fuse or a faulty relay board. There are cases where the main control board may be the reason for a not heating oven. If it is a gas oven most of the time the problem is with the igniter.

• Igniter: The igniter is responsible for most of the problems for ovens not heating. Watch the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 1 minute without igniting the gas into a flame it mostly likely means the igniter is too weak to open the safety valve and probably needs replacement. If there is no glow at all the igniter can be tested with a multimeter and replaced in necessary.
• Bake and Broil Elements: The bake and broil elements should be able to glow “red hot”. If it can't the oven will not heat properly. Inspect the elements for cracks and holes. They can be tested with a multimeter for continuity.
• Spark Electrode: The spark electrode ignites gas for baking and broiling purposes. It sits next to the burner. You can inspect the porcelain housing and the tip of the electrode for damage. Pro Tip: A proper ground and correct polarity of the incoming voltage is required for the spark electrode to function correctly so these need to be checked to as a possible source of the problem.

When your oven is not keeping the right temperature or not reaching it, the problem is probably with the temperature control thermostat. Sometimes a temperature sensor might be faulty causing the temperature to be not accurate in the oven. A faulty control board is one of the reasons for this problem as well.

• Bake and Broil Elements: Usually its the bake and broil elements that need to be replaced. They wear out over time. Inspect them for cracks and holes. They can be tested with a multimeter for continuity.
• Igniter: The igniter weakens over time. It can be tested with a multimeter for continuity.
• Temperature Control Thermostat: This thermostat monitors the temperature inside the oven. The temperature control thermostat is a complex unit that is difficult to test. Our repair technicians have the experience to be able to determine if this is the cause of your oven not heating.
• Oven Sensor: The oven sensor helps regulate the temperature inside the oven by varying its electrical resistance. On some oven models you can recalibrate the oven control sensor. Refer to you owners manual for instruction.

Oven won't turn on due to a faulty thermal fuse that trips if the oven overheats, if it is blown the oven won't turn on at all. One of the relays on the relay control might be faulty as well, in that case a new board is required. A faulty main control board is a common cause as well.

• Bake and Broil Elements: These main elements can burn out over time. They can crack and get holes. Inspect them for damage.
• Igniter: Igniters are the number one cause of an oven not turning on. Igniters open the safety valve and heat up to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. It can be tested with a multimeter for continuity and replaced if necessary.
• Spark Electrode: The spark electrode ignites the gas for baking and broiling. It can break or wear out over time. Inspect for signs of damage.

There are a few main culprits and most likely its the spark ignition switch. Each element has a spark ignition switch. Check the spark ignition switches with a multimeter at all positions to test for continuity.

If your ovens fan is always running it is most likely an issue with the oven control board or a thermostat.

If the oven door is locked (usually after self cleaning) the problem in most cases is with the door switch and it needs to be replaced. Sometimes a faulty main control board is the reason for the door being locked.