If your fridge is not cold but the freezer is ok you are encountering a pretty common issue for a household fridge. Most of the time this might be caused due to a faulty evaporator fan, frosted evaporator coils or a faulty damper control. No worries it is a pretty easy fix and we are able to help same day in most cases.

• Condenser Coils: The condenser coils are located under the fridge and can easily get dirty. These coils help dissipate heat as refrigerant moves through them. If the coils get dirty they don't work as well and need to be cleaned. Yeah, an easy fix!
• Evaporator Fan Motor: Some refrigerators have two evaporator fan motors one for the freezer and one for the fridge. The evaporator fan motor helps draw air over the evaporator coils (cooling the air) it circulates it through the fridge. You can try turning the fan blade by hand and if it does not spin you need to replace the motor. The motor may also be a cause of noise. The motor may also be checked with a multimeter to determine if it has continuity.
• Thermostat: The temperature control thermostat directs a lot of voltage to the compressors and motors of a fridge. You can try rotating the thermostat from low to high and listen for a “clicking” sound. If it clicks it is probably OK. A multimeter can also be used to determine if the thermostat has continuity at every setting.
• Temperature Control Board: Be careful as this is a commonly misdiagnosed part. It is very important to check all the other possible components first.
• Compressor: The compressor is another expensive and often misdiagnosed issue with fridge repair. The compressor is a pump that circulates refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. All other parts must be inspected before jumping to the conclusion that a faulty compressor is at fault. It can be tested with a multimeter for continuity.

A leaking fridge needs to be repaired quickly as it can lead to water damage in your home or business. In many cases the cause of the leakage is a clogged or frozen defrost drain hose. In other cases the fridge might be leaking due to a faulty water inlet valve.

• Defrost Drain: If the defrost drain is frozen or clogged then water will overflow the drain trough and eventually make its way onto your floor. If the drain is frozen you can try flushing it with hot water. Also check for blockages.
• Water Tank: The water tank assembly could have a leak. It may be very small so check carefully. If a leak is found the water tank must be replaced.
• Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve allows water to flow into the water dispenser and ice machine. You may be able to tighten the valve by hand. Inspect the water inlet valve for cracks and replace on any sign of damage.
• Water Filter System: The water filtration system contains a water tank assembly, housing, seals, water filter head and filters. They can all be the cause of a leak and need to be inspected carefully.

If the fridge is running load or making weird noises it is probably because the evaporator fan blades are rubbing against something, check for an ice built up in that area. The noise source could be also from the condenser fan if it is faulty or if something is caught in the blades.

• Fan Blade: The most common issue regarding fridge noise is a faulty fan blade or condenser fan blade. You can try to turn these blades by hand. If they don't turn freely check for rubbing and objects that could be blocking them.
• Evaporator and Condenser Fan Motors: When the evaporator fan motor fails it can generate a lot of noise and will need to be replaced.
  The condenser fan motor is usually located at the back of the fridge behind an access panel. It's bearings can fail and will need replacement.

When our fridge starts to act like our freezer and freezes our food it is most likely because we have a faulty temperature control sensor (thermostat). There are some cases where we need to replace the thermistor (it monitors the air temperature and sends readings to the control board for adjustments). And there are times when our temperature control board just gives up.

• Thermostat: The temperature control thermostat controls the compressor and evaporator and condenser fan motors. You can test your thermostat by adjusting your fridge's temperature control from low to high and listen for a “clicking” noise. If you hear a click it is probably OK. If no clicking happens test the thermostat with a multimeter.
• Thermistor: The thermistor monitors air temperature and sends the reading to the control board. It must be checked with a multimeter. The Thermistor will have different resistances depending on the temperature of the fridge, if it does not change it needs to be replaced.
• Damper and Damper Control Assembly: They work in conjunction to let the proper amount of air into the refrigerator compartment. It could be stuck open or broken.

It might sound simple but in most cases we are not going to get our desired ice due to a high temperature in our freezer. If the temperature is higher than -12C (10F) we might not get ice, simply adjust the temperature to be lower and problem is solved. Sometimes though the ice maker might be faulty and just needs to be replaced.

• Freezer Temperature is Too High: Here is the easiest fix of them all! If your freezer's temperature is too high the ice maker will not function properly. Your freezer should be set to between -14C to -18C.
• Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve supplies water to the ice-maker. It is electronically controlled. This valve also requires at least 20psi of water pressure to work properly. You can check the valve with a multimeter. You will also have to determine your home or businesses water pressure is sufficient.
• Ice Maker Assembly: The ice maker assembly is really just the entire ice maker unit (all of the parts). Sometimes individual ice maker parts are not available and the entire assembly needs to be replaced. Pro Tip: check the water inlet valve, water line and fan first.
• Ice-maker Module: The ice maker module has a motor that is used to eject the ice cubes into a bucket or tray. This module sends a signal to the water inlet valve to refill the tray with water for the next round of cubes. Depending on your fridge model you can first try making sure that the on/off switch is set to “on”. Also try adjusting your bail arm to the down position. Ice cubes may also be stuck in the unit. Our expert freezer repair techs can help diagnose many other issues with the Ice-maker module, unfortunately its a complex component.
• Water Filter: Your water filter should be replaced every 6 months. It happens all the time that a clogged or dirty filter can disrupt water flow into your ice maker.

There are a multitude of issues that could lead to a fridge running constantly. Some may be easy fixes, while others much more involved. The most common causes are dirty condensers and coils, thermostats, and temperature setup.

• Condenser Coils: Your condenser coils should be cleaned 2X per year. They are located under the fridge and can easily get dirty. Condenser coils dissipate heat from the fridge as refrigerant passes through them. The more dirty they become, the hared your fridge needs to work.
• Freezer Temperature: Your freezer's temperature should be set between -14 to -18 degrees celsius. If the temperature is not set low enough than your fridge works overtime.
• Defrost Heater Assembly and Defrost Thermostat: Both operate to keep frost from accumulating on your evaporator coils. If they are faulty the refrigerator may run constantly. They can be checked with a multi meter.
• Door Gasket: The door gasket might be torn or has become uneven. A loose door could also be the root of the problem.

• Defrost Drain: The defrost drain is probably frozen or clogged. Thaw it out and check for any blockages.
• Drain Strap: A drain strap is a small piece of metal that attaches to the defrost heater and extends into the defrost drain. It is designed to keep the drain from freezing. It needs to be checked and possibly replaced.
• Drain Heaters: Some fridges have drain heaters to prevent freezing. It could be frozen, defective or not in the proper position and could be the reason for the defrost drain becoming frozen.